Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
